Slow Food with Carlo Petrini

A bowl of penne seems puny compared to a fast food giant like McDonalds, and such a stark contrast is an excellent way of making a point. Slow food and fast food are opposites. Fast food is a product of an industrial food chain, while the Slow Food Movement supports food that is good, clean and fair. That means local food chains rather than industrial ones.

The juxtaposition of traditional penne with globalised hamburgers is a poignant one, and Carlo Petrini has an amazing ability with these kinds of examples. The leader of the Slow Food Movement is an inspiring speaker. His talk at the Sydney International Food Festival went for more than an hour, and he was so energetic he only sat down once. The rest of the time he was speaking passionately in Italian, gesticulating intensely, and somehow managing to leave gaps for his talented translator to give us the message in English.

Carlo Petrini believes that food is valuable, and not merely a commodity. He described the top down photographs of food in magazines as being like corpses, and reminded us that these photos of food are at risk of becoming like pornography. There is more to food than recipes and presentation. Food should taste good, it should be enjoyed in good company, and it should be produced sustainably.

Today we spend approximately the same proportion of our incomes on mobile phones as we do on food, but perhaps we have our values misplaced. Carlo explained “When I eat a piece of prosciutto, it becomes Carlo Petrini”, and he patted his stomach. “But this thing”, and he waved his mobile phone in the air, “is always outside of me”.

Embellishing this point, he told us about the owner of a famous mountaintop restaurant. When asked why she was only open for lunch she replied that she did not want to be the richest person in the graveyard. She valued her food for its quality, not merely its worth as a commodity.

In the case of food, what is logical from an industrial perspective is not necessarily logical for local communities, or from the point of view of common sense. Carlo’s example of this was his visit to a famous capsicum growing region in Italy, where he ordered peperonata at a restaurant. The sauce was flavourless, and when he asked where the peppers were grown he discovered they had come all the way from the Netherlands. Worried about the local capsicum growers he was reassured that they were making a living growing tulip bulbs in their greenhouses.

These kinds of ironies of industrial agriculture are surprisingly common, and Petrini had plenty of examples of them. Modeling farming on factories leads to a kind of uniformity that just doesn’t necessarily make good food. Carlo talked about the loss of a breed of cow (whose milk production was relatively low) leading to the loss of a type of cheese. This demonstrated how local cuisine and biodiversity go hand in hand.

To support local tastes and agriculture we have to be prepared to pay a higher price for produce that is locally and sustainably produced. In addition to this Carlo suggested supporting school and community gardens, which can make local produce accessible for lower income families. Running out of time Petrini finished his lecture on a good note. Since we were in the Sydney Opera House he sang us a snippet of opera – in Italian of course.

More about Slow Food
Slow Food Australia
International Slow Food Movement

I’d like to thank Lorraine from Not Quite Nigella for sending me a ticket to this lecture.

A Physician’s Feast

Galen was an Ancient Greek physician who lived around 129-210 AD. His descriptions of anatomy were used up until the sixteenth century (the time of Galileo) even though he only dissected animals and not humans, which lead to some errors in his work. His anatomy focused on the humours, or fluids, that permeated the body. His studies of food and diet also focused on balancing these four humours: blood, phlegm, yellow bile and black bile. The only humour you want to stimulate routinely is blood, so foods that were supposed to do this, such as wine, were particularly healthy according to Galen.

Galen’s theories were put to the test at the Physician’s Feast cooking class. The menu for the day used ingredients common in Ancient Greece, which were prepared according to Galen’s theories of balance. The instructor was David Tsirekas, a modern Greek chef from Perama Restaurant, who has a keen interest in Ancient Greece. He and Renée the archaeologist told us about Galen’s experience as a physician to gladiators at Pergamon. There Galen learnt the value of beans and pork for putting flesh on the body.

The other property of beans he found was that they promoted flatulence, so he developed methods for reducing this. Galen believed the properties of foods could be transferred during processes such as boiling, so he recommended boiling your legumes in three changes of water. This would make the beans less flatulent and you could make a more dilute digestive tonic from the water. We had our triple-boiled chickpeas with grated cheese, olive oil and parsley. Galen favoured chickpeas for being less flatulent than beans and for their power to generate semen and stimulate the sexual urge.

Beetroots and leeks have a cold property, so according to Galen’s balance they should be served with something warming. We had ours with mustard. The leeks served with our beets are not recommended for the bilious due to their bitter properties, but Galen suggests they are helpful in reducing phlegm. We also had a lettuce salad, which is supposed to be very healthy and stimulate the blood. Cabbage is a drying food which we served seasoned with pepper, olive oil and fish sauce. Fish sauce isn’t used in modern Greek cooking, but in Ancient Athens it was an essential flavour. In addition fish was often salted as a means of preservation.

David showed us how to salt fish in brine so salty that an egg will bob on its surface. After three days, and three changes of brine, the fish can be stored under olive oil. David gave us some of his father’s salted tuna, which had a strong salty flavour. You needed to eat it with the vegetables to balance the salt.

Wheat bread was another food Galen favoured, especially over the barley bread that was eaten by the lower classes. He probably became more familiar with high class food during his later years when he was personal physician to the Emperor Marcus Aurelius in Rome. We made white bread using David’s recipe from Brittany. It called for fresh yeast and 00 flour (the finest grind). The high gluten content made the dough remarkably elastic, which made the kneading a wonderfully noisy event as the dough was thrown and slapped around.

Eggs were another favourite food of Galen’s, and he believed they were healthier when cooked to a medium consistency rather than hard boiled. Poached eggs were meant to be the healthiest of all, and were traditionally cooked in three legged pots. For the quantities we needed they were cooked in muffin pans in a water bath. It was so large that it balanced over all four burners of a gas stove. Seasoned with olive oil, fish sauce and red wine, our eggs took on a beautiful purple tinge around the edges.

I don’t know if these Galen-style poached eggs are really particularly healthy, but they are particularly delicious. As David deftly removed them from their moulds onto a platter he let us in on a secret. You don’t need a recipe by a celebrity chef to make a special dish – those Ancient Greeks knew a delicacy when they tasted one.

The Physician’s Feast cooking class was organised by the Sydney Friends of the Australian Archaeological Institute at Athens.

Plant based diet? Patatas bravas anyone?

I went to an excellent lecture this week called Eating the Earth: how should we eat to ensure a sustainable future? Stuart White from the Institute for Sustainable Futures at UTS introduced the session. He explained how all food has to use resources in its production. This means it has embodied water and fuel, not to mention some foods having embodied inequality or cruelty. He emphasised the importance of looking at your food as part of a larger system with inputs and outputs. If a system is to be sustainable these inputs and outputs need to be carefully managed. He said food is a very evocative area of sustainability because it is so personal. Our individual food choices can make a big difference to sustainability. The issue is small enough to be approachable, although public policy certainly has a role to play. Food is a great example of how we can think globally and act locally.

The next speaker was Rosemary Stanton, a famous Australian nutritionist in public health (biography here). She spoke about how we can make a difference to our personal food footprints. She also encouraged us to become political activists to change government policy. Maybe it’s time to carry through those letter writing intentions. I’ll give you a list of some of her suggestions below.

Finally Dana Cordell from the Global Phosphorous Research Initiative talked about the importance of phosphate in soils. It is a fertiliser that all plants need to grow and can be added to the soil as manure, but more usually comes from rock phosphate. It turns out that rock phosphate, like oil, is a resource in the hands of few countries and which will probably reach a peak in the near future. She spoke about phosphate recycling in Sweden and the need for a link between the food and sanitation industries (not too pretty, but probably true). I found the discussion on phosphate particularly interesting because I had never heard about this issue before.

While the phosphate discussion was interesting, the information on making sustainable food choices has more immediacy. Recycling phosphate is a matter for public policy, but we have a lot of power over our personal footprints. Here is a list of the suggestions from the lecture on how to reduce your food footprint.

-eat seasonally
-eat a plant based diet (aiming to be vegetarian some days each week)
-when choosing meat favour smaller animals and free range or grass fed animals
-eat less processed food (the funniest example was the 25000 kj needed to make 1L of low kj softdrink)
-eat local organic food (not the imported stuff)
-consider food miles by eating more locally produced food (while considering that crops must be grown in appropriate settings, e.g. imported rice is probably better than Australian)
-write to your local member, or minister on an issue you feel strongly about (such as container deposits for recycling or traffic light nutrition labelling)

Now writing this list is a lot easier than acting on it, and that is what I must do. Acting as locally as possible I started with dinner. I made a yummy vegetarian dish, patatas bravas. This often features in Spanish tapas and is basically baked potatoes and a spicy tomato sauce.

Ingredients for the potatoes
Potatoes (enough for two people)
1 tab olive oil
2 tsp paprika

Ingredients for the sauce
1 brown onion
1 hot chilli
1 tab olive oil
1 red capsicum
2 tomatoes
2 tsp paprika
1 tsp dried basil

Method
1. Chop the potatoes and boil for 5-10 minutes until tender.
2. Toss the potatoes in olive oil and paprika. Put in a hot oven to crisp up.
3. Meanwhile prepare the spicy sauce. Soften an onion and a chilli in a little olive oil. Add paprika and basil. Next add diced capsicum and tomatoes and cook until tender.
4. Serve the potatoes with the spicy tomato sauce. We also had hard-boiled eggs and olives on the side.

These roast potatoes would make a great side dish for other meals too.

The spicy tomato sauce and roasted potatoes made a very satisfying vegetarian meal. It was my first try at Spanish cooking but it was so yummy I’ll definitely have to try some more Spanish dishes.