A Physician’s Feast

Galen was an Ancient Greek physician who lived around 129-210 AD. His descriptions of anatomy were used up until the sixteenth century (the time of Galileo) even though he only dissected animals and not humans, which lead to some errors in his work. His anatomy focused on the humours, or fluids, that permeated the body. His studies of food and diet also focused on balancing these four humours: blood, phlegm, yellow bile and black bile. The only humour you want to stimulate routinely is blood, so foods that were supposed to do this, such as wine, were particularly healthy according to Galen.

Ingredients

Galen’s theories were put to the test at the Physician’s Feast cooking class. The menu for the day used ingredients common in Ancient Greece, which were prepared according to Galen’s theories of balance. The instructor was David Tsirekas, a modern Greek chef from Perama Restaurant, who has a keen interest in Ancient Greece. He and RenĂ©e the archaeologist told us about Galen’s experience as a physician to gladiators at Pergamon. There Galen learnt the value of beans and pork for putting flesh on the body.

Chickpeas

The other property of beans he found was that they promoted flatulence, so he developed methods for reducing this. Galen believed the properties of foods could be transferred during processes such as boiling, so he recommended boiling your legumes in three changes of water. This would make the beans less flatulent and you could make a more dilute digestive tonic from the water. We had our triple-boiled chickpeas with grated cheese, olive oil and parsley. Galen favoured chickpeas for being less flatulent than beans and for their power to generate semen and stimulate the sexual urge.

SteamingBeetroot

Beetroots and leeks have a cold property, so according to Galen’s balance they should be served with something warming. We had ours with mustard. The leeks served with our beets are not recommended for the bilious due to their bitter properties, but Galen suggests they are helpful in reducing phlegm. We also had a lettuce salad, which is supposed to be very healthy and stimulate the blood. Cabbage is a drying food which we served seasoned with pepper, olive oil and fish sauce. Fish sauce isn’t used in modern Greek cooking, but in Ancient Athens it was an essential flavour. In addition fish was often salted as a means of preservation.

DavidSaltedFish

David showed us how to salt fish in brine so salty that an egg will bob on its surface. After three days, and three changes of brine, the fish can be stored under olive oil. David gave us some of his father’s salted tuna, which had a strong salty flavour. You needed to eat it with the vegetables to balance the salt.

DavidKneading

Wheat bread was another food Galen favoured, especially over the barley bread that was eaten by the lower classes. He probably became more familiar with high class food during his later years when he was personal physician to the Emperor Marcus Aurelius in Rome. We made white bread using David’s recipe from Brittany. It called for fresh yeast and 00 flour (the finest grind). The high gluten content made the dough remarkably elastic, which made the kneading a wonderfully noisy event as the dough was thrown and slapped around.

PoachingEggs

Eggs were another favourite food of Galen’s, and he believed they were healthier when cooked to a medium consistency rather than hard boiled. Poached eggs were meant to be the healthiest of all, and were traditionally cooked in three legged pots. For the quantities we needed they were cooked in muffin pans in a water bath. It was so large that it balanced over all four burners of a gas stove. Seasoned with olive oil, fish sauce and red wine, our eggs took on a beautiful purple tinge around the edges.

DavidPoachingEggs

I don’t know if these Galen-style poached eggs are really particularly healthy, but they are particularly delicious. As David deftly removed them from their moulds onto a platter he let us in on a secret. You don’t need a recipe by a celebrity chef to make a special dish – those Ancient Greeks knew a delicacy when they tasted one.

AncientGreekFeast

The Physician’s Feast cooking class was organised by the Sydney Friends of the Australian Archaeological Institute at Athens.

24 thoughts on “A Physician’s Feast

  1. Ah, I was intrigued by this event when I saw it on the Perama website. I mistakenly took it as a feast for Syd Uni Physicians.. Great comprehensive event coverage!

  2. That is supremely cool! Some of it was a bit offputting, but it’s amazing what they thought things did! Very interesting stuff.

  3. Fascinating. I learned about the humours many years ago in an undergraduate psychology class but didn’t know about Galen’s food theories. He sounds a bit like a dietitian in ancient times.

  4. Yes, like what Forager said – I thought it was for Syd Uni Physicians as well. lol. Looks like a real interesting learning experience! I like the idea of the poached eggs.

  5. This was really interesting. Everything cooked a certain way, to balance the entire meal. Even though he got a couple of things wrong, Galen’s still knew what he was talking about. This would experience seems so rich in history, not to mention it looks like heaps of fun!

  6. absolutely brilliant
    the final photo depicts a very typical traditional meal as we know it in crete today. of course, we would have one of these at one sitting but the variety shows our daily food regime – a tiny bit of meat sticking out at the edge of a plate full of a variety of leguminous vegetation pretty much represents the amount of meat we eat in our diet
    having said this, crete is also undergoing drastic changes in her daily diet routine – gloabalisation is to blame, but so are all those yummy calories in junk food – who can stay away from temptation?
    i’m forwarding this post on my facebook page
    once again, congratulations – loved every bit of it

  7. This is so interesting! It’s strange, also, how different cultures have ideas on how foods influence health. Having grown up with the Chinese philosophy of yin and yang, I always think in terms of heat and cold, eg. milk, fried foods and coffee promote phlegm and shouldn’t be taken if you have a cough.

  8. Fascinating. The foods look great. I’d eat them even without the knowledge of their health benefits. Will keep the benefits of chickpeas in mind. The ability to be, er, charged without flatulence is a very good thing.

  9. You must have been enjoying the class. I’d love to go to one of these classes if it is near me hehehe… Great post. I love it!

  10. Hey Arwen
    I’ve really been enjoying your blog. Everything from your lovely garden on your balcony to the gluten free food you make and restaurants you visit. This is why I’ve nominated you for a Kreativ Bloggers Award! (you can check it out on my blog if you want to pass it on).
    Cheers, Anita

  11. Gosh, those eggs look wonderful!

    I’m so pleased you went to David’s class – I’d heard a lot about it via Kathryn Elliott and it looks as though it was just as intriguing as it sounded. Lovely day.

  12. I overheard people chatting about this class on Twitter and was very intrigued. It sounds like it was fascinating. Interesting to see how some nutrition wisdom is superseded with time, but that some stays true (albeit new explanations and understanding)

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